Wildfire • Georgetown

Wildfire • Georgetown

Written by Kara Vaught Friday, 11 July 2008

The aromas of applewood, mesquite and hickory smoke mingle in the air of Wildfire’s banquet room as owner Bill Cox and I sit down to talk about the restaurant.

I’m stuffed from my supper, but the smell makes me want to order again.

This month, Wildfire celebrates 12 years in business in Georgetown’s historic downtown. Cox said he named the restaurant after his chefs’ method of cooking over oak logs, allowing the smoke from three distinct woods to flavor the dishes.

The restaurant is divided into three sections: a bar featuring rock music from the ’60s and ’70s; main dining room with big private booths and candlelight; and a banquet room where groups gather to celebrate or collaborate.

My husband and I ordered Crispy Parmesan Breaded Polenta Wedges ($8) served with Cabernet wild mushrooms, spinach, feta cheese and tomato olive salsa fresco. I loved the zing of the feta and olives with the more delicate polenta, an Italian staple made of cornmeal.

The Flame Seared Australian Rack of Lamb ($29) with Gorgonzola potatoes, garlic spinach, red chili wild mushroom demi-glace and tostada onions was as good as the presentation. The lamb was tender and juicy, and the high-class onion rings were a fun and delicious topping.

After seriously considering the Bone-In Cowboy Ribeye ($26), American Bison Strip Loin ($25) and the Oak Fired Elk Tenderloin ($26), my husband chose the ribeye. It came with Texas Pecan Green Beans and Anaheim Bacon Cheddar Red Bliss Mash Potatoes, making for a very satisfying meat and potatoes dinner — and lunch the following day.

I veered off my usual chocolate course for the Buttercream Carrot Cake ($7) while my husband ordered Dulce de Lece Cheesecake ($8) for dessert. Neither of those made it out of the building as leftovers.

Cox said his goal is to create a family environment with his staff and customers.

“I have no children, so these really are my kids,” he said. “My sous-chefs worked with me before I owned Wildfire, and they said if I ever started my own restaurant, they wanted to come with me. They left better paying jobs to work here.”

Most of Wildfire’s kitchen staff has worked there since it opened, something quite unusual in the business.

Beginning his career as a 15-year-old dishwasher, Cox was later promoted to “salad preparation engineer.” He continued to work in restaurants while majoring in architecture at the Georgia Institute of Technology and then aerospace engineering at the University of Texas. One day, he realized it was the restaurant business he loved.

Nine months ago, Cox broadened the Wildfire brand by opening Sparky’s Smokehouse in Sun City, a casual version of the original restaurant.

Wildfire is also now promoting its catering abilities, once reserved for regular customers who knew to ask.

As for other restaurants moving into downtown, Cox said he welcomes them.

Historical Building

Wildfire is located in two buildings originally constructed in about 1920. Over the years, they housed a clothing store, Piggly Wiggly grocery store, a meat market, air conditioning and electrical service company, a Sears and Roebuck catalog store and business offices.

One of Wildfire’s neighbors in the historic Georgetown Square is the Palace Theatre, an Art Deco-style building constructed in 1925. Wildfire owner Bill Cox said he occasionally steps next door to relax and watch the cast of an upcoming play rehearse.

Wildfire, 812 S. Austin Ave., Georgetown, 869-FIRE

Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.-9 p.m.