Manuel’s

Manuel’s

Written by Eric Pulsifer Friday, 25 July 2008

Many Texans have disagreed over the differences between Mexican and Tex-Mex — and throwing the variations served in California and New Mexico into the mix only makes matters more confusing.

But Francisco Cortez, Manuel’s general manager, said there is no argument about the entrées at his restaurant. Manuel’s serves authentic interior Mexican cuisine, using fresh ingredients and original recipes from Mexico.

“There are different dishes from all over the country,” Cortez said. “We don’t buy anything from outside, and that’s the key: We prepare everything fresh every day.”

Regardless of how it’s classified, the food at Manuel’s is exceptional. Be it the attention to detail in the presentation or the complex flavors that fill the dishes, drinks and desserts, the experience at Manuel’s is a welcome relief from typical Mexican dining.

Few items on the menu are fried and none are drowned in cheese or chili sauce — a favorite of Tex-Mex eateries and a telltale sign that the kitchen is trying to compensate for the blandness of the food.

Plates at Manuel’s are easy on the eyes and formally dressed with sides of white rice and black beans.

A polished concrete floor, bright colors and mosaic-tiled walls frame a spacious, modern dining room that is as chic as it is comfortable.

Exterior dining is ideal for happy hour. Under the shade of a sprawling tree and ivy-covered lattice, patrons are treated to half-price appetizers and the soothing sound of water from surrounding fountains.

For starters, Manuel’s chile con queso ($7) is made with thick queso blanco. As mere chips cannot stand up to its stringy strength, it is served with flour tortillas. It lacks the soupiness of the cheesy Velveeta-based concoctions most pass off as dip and glistens with the glorious greasiness of real melted cheese.

Those aforementioned chips come in handy for Manuel’s orange-red salsa, which isn’t too chunky or spicy, but has the soft sweetness of fresh tomatoes and peppers with a hint of garlic.

To cool things down, Manuel’s serves a long list of tequilas, wines and colorful cocktails, including a tasty cucumber lime martini. But Manuel’s self-proclaimed “Austin’s Best Margarita” ($6.50) pairs perfectly with any meal. It is subtle and refreshing and doesn’t come across as too sugary or strong.

For the main course, seafood plays a starring role. Sweet lump blue crab, scallops and shrimp are topped with a mild red chile cream sauce inside the chile relleno del mar ($19). It’s one of the three stuffed peppers Manuel’s serves, of which each comes with a plate of fresh fruit.

For more common Mexican fare, assortments of enchiladas for every palate are available, from the scrumptious simplicity of enchiladas suizas ($14) to the layers of aromatic spices in enchiladas de mole ($16).

Manuel’s has been in downtown Austin since 1983 and in the Arboretum area since 1998. Though it may be different from what many picture when they think of Mexican food, Manuel’s classic dishes and contemporary atmosphere make it an unforgettable hotspot in a city filled with memorable Mexican cuisine.

Happy hour

Seven days a week, happy hour is from 4 to 6 p.m. and features drink specials, including $4 house margaritas and half-price appetizers. Live music is presented on the patio Thursday nights starting at 6:30 p.m. and for Sunday brunch starting at 11:30 a.m.

Manuel’s, 10201 Jollyville Road

345-1042, www.manuels.com

• Mon.-Thu. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
• Fri. and Sat. 11 a.m.-midnight
• Sun. 10 a.m.-10 p.m.