Chief’s BBQ & Grill

Chief’s BBQ & Grill

Written by Toby Baker Thursday, 08 May 2008

Austin — On the corner of Dittmar Road and South First Street in deep South Austin, an unassuming strip center sits at the northeast corner of the intersection. The plain brick structure houses a gas station, an insurance office, and most importantly, an unpolished gem of a barbecue joint.

Chief’s BBQ & Grill appears to be nothing special, but I noticed all that was necessary for creating an A-Class barbecue restaurant, including a portable sunshade for outdoor dining. All in all, the term “hole in the wall” came to mind, which always excites my palette.

One of the customers I met described Chief’s in a different way, as “the best kept secret in South Austin.” Sorry Chief’s, the secret is out.

The menu is extensive, featuring all of the traditional barbecue offerings, as well as burgers, homemade onion rings and beer-battered French fries. I was slightly overwhelmed by the choices, leading me to solicit suggestions from one of the loyal patrons.

She quickly informed me she had grown up cooking barbecue and that Chief’s had “the best beef in Austin.”

Taking her word for it, I started with Chief’s most popular sandwich called The Homer ($4.29), consisting of chopped beef, sliced sausage, pickles, onions and some of the best handmade sauce I have had. The ample amount of beef paired with the nicely seasoned sausage was un-deserving of such a low price.

As a side, I tried the beer-battered French fries. I consider myself a connoisseur of fries and these were the real deal. They were light, crispy and fried to a nice golden color, creating a pleasant contrast with the moist sandwich.

Of course, a large cup of sweet tea tied everything together. Sometimes sweet tea can be so sweet it is impossible to feel refreshed. This did not fall into that category, combining the refreshment of traditional iced tea with the best attributes of the sweeter version. This is what I wish I had in my fridge at all times during South Austin’s hot summers.

Next I gave the Three Meat Plate a whirl ($11.49). Brisket, turkey, pork ribs, slaw and beans rounded out the plate. My first impression of the brisket, which I experienced with The Homer, was confirmed. It was moist without too much fat while retaining excellent flavor. Somehow, the thin-sliced turkey seemed to have soaked up the smoke in the pit without drying out. Chief’s ribs were tender, passing the true test for good ribs as the meat, I do think, literally jumped off the bone. The beans came with a nice surprise, served with perfectly finished Texas toast.

The consistency of the slaw was just right. The fact that it is handmade and not soggy allows for the flavor of the veggies to come through, providing a nice refuge from the good-sized portions of meat.

Next time you are looking for good, authentic, local barbecue, stop by Chief’s and embrace the minimalist approach. If you cannot make it, give them a call and they will deliver it to you. They also have a second location in the interior of West Gate Lanes Bowling Alley. This is pure South Austin.

Chief’s BBQ & Grill, 7811 S. First St., Ste. 104, 444-BEEF (2333)

• 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Mon.-Sat.
• 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Sun.